The Chainlink

I am curious as to what year your bike was made... or what brand.  or any other interesting info, or what you like about it.  Me: (aprox.) 1985 Peugeot.  My reflectors match my paint job (original), I like that. 

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We got tom toms over here bigger than a monster. 

I was thinking about Robert's problem on the way home (nice to ride on a traffic-free LFT). It occurred to me that maybe the hub locknuts are loose. That could produce the problem. I agree with Doug though. Time to take it to your local LBS for an expert diagnosis.

I'll probably LBS it, because  I really like that set up, and want to get it riding without the constant slipping... and I was tightening it as tight as I could without stripping the nut, except when I did strip the nut.  but thanks fo da advice.

Please report back and let us know what the problem turned out to be.


Robert Underwood said:

I'll probably LBS it, because  I really like that set up, and want to get it riding without the constant slipping... and I was tightening it as tight as I could without stripping the nut, except when I did strip the nut.  but thanks fo da advice.

My newest project, finished this week. A Rawland Nordavinden. I built up the entire bike myself, save for some help from John and Nora at Uptown.

Took her for a first spin this afternoon and she is a joy to ride, light, snappy, with predictable steering. Except for some adjustment to the handlebars and brake levers, everything seemed to be working fine.

Looks amazing!

What levers are those?



Duppie said:

My newest project, finished this week. A Rawland Nordavinden. I built up the entire bike myself, save for some help from John and Nora at Uptown.

Took her for a first spin this afternoon and she is a joy to ride, light, snappy, with predictable steering. Except for some adjustment to the handlebars and brake levers, everything seemed to be working fine.

They are TRP RRL SR levers.

A modern copy of classic non-aero levers by TRP, Tektro's higher end brand



Hey! Bike Shop Guy said:

Looks amazing!

What levers are those?



Duppie said:

 [...]

My newest project, finished this week. A Rawland Nordavinden. I built up the entire bike myself, save for some help from John and Nora at Uptown.

Took her for a first spin this afternoon and she is a joy to ride, light, snappy, with predictable steering. Except for some adjustment to the handlebars and brake levers, everything seemed to be working fine.

Here are some more pictures.

Nitto Noodle handlebars wrapped in Selle Anatomica leather wrap, tied up with some waxed thread.  Also visible are the TRP levers, and the Berthoud decaleur for Ahead stems, the only decaleur that fit. The rack is a Nitto M18.

Schmidt Dynohub, with wiring routed internally thru the fork.

Wiring for lights, hidden inside fenders. This being VO fenders I had to glue the wiring on the insde using DAP Marine Sealant.

Rene Herse crank set, one of the lightest cranks on the market. They are modern copies of the original developed in 1938

My 2008 ICE T Recumbent Trike is made in Great Britain. These are the added accessories: rear rack, neck-rest, tensioner, grocery basket, foam-padded seat, air-horn, cheap bicycle horn and flamingo. I like it because I no longer fall, ice is not a problem, the reclined position keeps the scoliosis pain at bay, I look up at the world rather than counting pavement cracks and I take all my photos without ever getting off my trike.

Lovely randonneur ride, Duppie. Mssr. Herse himself would be proud.

Magnificent!

Duppie said:

My newest project, finished this week. A Rawland Nordavinden. I built up the entire bike myself, save for some help from John and Nora at Uptown.

Took her for a first spin this afternoon and she is a joy to ride, light, snappy, with predictable steering. Except for some adjustment to the handlebars and brake levers, everything seemed to be working fine.

Great looking build Duppie!

You might want to bring the FD down on the seat tube so it sits a little closer to the chainring. I believe ythe spec is between 1-2mm clearance between the derailleur arm and the outer chainring. (Disregard, if it's just the camera angle making the gap appear larger than it really is)

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