The Chainlink

Figured I would lean on the varied expertise of the community again for a few things.

1. I'm thinking about adding another set of brake levers to my bar ends for comfort.  I've been using them more and more and feel like it would be a bit safer and easier to have brakes up on the ends as well as on the bar, since I have my current ones moved closer to the stem (wide hands).  Is this possible to do with disc brakes?  Any particular disadvantages that I should be looking for? 

2. I recently had a bunch of issues with spokes breaking on my rear wheel.  I finally got the shop to warranty it out with GT, and even got a rim upgrade since GT had too many problems with the old one and no longer stocks it.  I let the shop do all of the work to swap the wheel out for me, so that they would cover it if I have any further problems.  They told me that they put my hub, disc, and tire on the new rim (replaced the tube for me gratis though).  Now, my previously silent hub is clicking when I coast.  What's causing this and how can I get rid of it?

3.  In light of the aforementioned spoke issues, can this be caused by disc brakes under normal use?  As I was headed to the shop for the replacement, I broke yet another one and I realized that it had happened while braking.  I do tend to rely on just the rear brake for simple stops and slowdowns (turning, stoplights, etc), and really only use the front when I need to stop quick or if I'm on a decline.

Thanks

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1) if the disc brakes are hydraulic no, if they are cable actuated it is possible to run two levers but I have never seen it done on MTB bar ends.

2)Clicking issues cannot be diagnosed over the internet, if your shop cannot find the click bring it somewhere else

3) Disc brakes are harder on spokes then rim brakes. How much do you weigh? and how much load do you carry? Keep in mind most brakes systems were not designed to carry much more then the weight of an average person, so if you carry heavy panniers, or pull a trailer you will have to use wheels that are sturdier then what may have come stock on the bike. 

It's quite possible that if the new wheel has a different freehub than the previous one, that's just the way it works.  I'm not suggesting any of these freehubs are on your bike, but this video just demonstrates that they all sound different, some louder, some quieter, some more annoying.

Does the coasting clicking sound different as it did before?  The racheting mechanism in the hub clicks while coasting unless you have some silent rear hub that I've never heard of.

Te old wheel didn't click at all while coasting.  Not sure the sound actually annoys me all that much, just more concerned that it may be a problem since it's new.  

@Michael

They are cable actuated brakes.  Thanks.



Michael A said:

1) if the disc brakes are hydraulic no, if they are cable actuated it is possible to run two levers but I have never seen it done on MTB bar ends.

I'm pretty sure you could do it with hydraulics but you'd have to jury rig or build a bunch of things that would probably end up costing a lot of money.  Getting brake levers and another cylinder onto barends might be tough though. 

I'd take the wheel back to the shop that built it to see what they think of the clicking noise.

Dann B (5.25 mi/8.75 mi) said:

Te old wheel didn't click at all while coasting.  Not sure the sound actually annoys me all that much, just more concerned that it may be a problem since it's new.  

@Michael

They are cable actuated brakes.  Thanks.

A long time ago I saw some kind of extenders that you bolt to your levers.  You can reach the extenders from your hand position on the bar ends.  I guess if it was a good idea, I'd have seen more of them around.

What is the model of the bike you are having the questions with?

GT what?


Karakoram 2.0


Joe Torres said:

What is the model of the bike you are having the questions with?

GT what?

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