The Chainlink

Why is a threaded headset better than threadless or vice versa? 

 

I searched through the archive.  I can't believe this is the first time this has been discussed but here goes.  I've got my popcorn and a soda.....  What do you think?!? 

 

 

 

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He's really talking about threadless stems....... :-) I hope my head tube can stay within the .1mm to .25mm spec as per Park Tool. I really don't want any drama at the Recyclery this week.

Some brakes are broken...

I like to use a threadless stem on a threaded/threadless quill adapter in a conventional threaded headset.  

Using this combination gives me the ability to still move the quill part up and down in the steer tube for adjustabilty as well as swap out the threadless stem to change the angle from the stem as well as move the bars further forward or back.  Threadless stems can be found in all different angles and lengths and often are fairly cheap.  

The only large disadvantage of this system is that a quill adapter + threadless stem weighs a bit more than a dedicated quill stem -especially really LONG quill adapters.  The biggest issue is the long stem bolt which needs to be strong and is always made out of heavy steel -adding much weight.  And the extra material around the clamp on the quill side of the stem, along with the pinch bolts, can't compete with the one-piece lightness of a regular "7" quill stem.  

Also, there are many modern quill stems that have a 2 or 4-bolt handlebar clamp with a "pop top" that allows the handlebar to be easily removed without needing to remove the bar tap/grips or breaking the brake levers down...

Threadless/threaded quill adapter.

Here is a shorter/lighter version I using on  my Cyclocross bike.

I also have a "pop-top" standard threaded stem on my city bike with extra-long reach for that Dutch Bike feel/look.  No need to break the brakes to get the handlebar on/off. 

It matters to me that people use the right word, is that so wrong?



S.Presley☠ said:

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