Someone give me the secret tip for removing super tight pedals!
I've got my pedal wrench, I know the left pedal is reverse thread, tried holding the opposite pedal down with my foot, but I can't get them off. These are the ones that the shop installed when I got the bike so I would think they greased them and didn't cross-thread them. Incidentally, these are the pedals that I'm blaming for my 2mph fall at MM Saturday night.
So, what's the trick to getting them off? I can't seem to generate enough leverage, don't want to round off the flats on the pedal or the wrench.
Help!
Views: 476
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by James BlackHeron on -
Standing on the crank rarely does much good. The crank needs to be held back solidly by something a little less giving than just a bit of weight. We are talking about lever arms that can lift 200+ pounds quite easily.
Plus this is just putting way too much torque into the BB shell and the frame -all the way out to the wheels. If you want your bike to ride nice constant-radius circles when you take your hands off of the bars then this might be a good idea -otherwise maybe think about some system to hold the crank more solidly than just stepping on it.
Simply squeezing the crank against the pedal wrench is VERY effective if the flats on the pedal are aligned so that the wrench can be placed in such a way as to facilitate this. It works because the force isn't being softened by any moment of the crank. Short of that a vise works well to hold the crank or using sharp blows bring the force applied up rapidly in a spike to work against the inertia of an object at rest before it can move away.
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Permalink Reply by Dave Jacque on -
Apply a healthy squirt of Liquid Wrench and *tap* the part gently with your wrench for about 30 seconds to work the stuff down into the threads. Think loose thoughts. You'll need to repeat the process a couple of times.
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Permalink Reply by Craig S. on -
Ya know, the obvious solution is to take your bike back to the shop and let them take the pedal off.
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Permalink Reply by Eduardo on -
Lots of good tips here. Once you get the pedals off, apply a generous amount of Anti-Seize lube to your pedal threads. Finish Line makes a good one. Prevents cold-welding, galling and seizing of metal to metal contact parts.
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Permalink Reply by Chris C on -
Whoso Removeth the Pedal from the Crank Arm, is Rightwise King Born of All England.
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Permalink Reply by James BlackHeron on
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Bike-specific anti-seize is not necessary IMHO. Permatex makes a very good automotive anti-seize and can be found at any automotive store for about $4 or less for a 3oz tube -or you can spend $8 on a lifetime supply for a home mechanic in the 8oz brush-top jar.
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Permalink Reply by mindfrieze on -
Yes, good anti-seize has metal in it (which is probably why it's silver) to attract any galvanic corrosion that might otherwise cold-weld your parts together, and it contains only a little grease. Grease can prevent water intrusion that could rust your parts, but alone, it can't combat galvanic attack the way anti-seize can.
Andrew N said:In all seriousness (this time), is anti-seize > grease for pedals?
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Permalink Reply by James BlackHeron on
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Anti-seize is specially formulated grease that will not dry up, wash or melt & run away, or otherwise dissipate over the long run no matter what the conditions the parts are subjected to. These properties are more important to anti-seize as it is not really used as a lubricant as the parts only move past each other twice -once when installed and once when disassembled.
It is used to prevent dry-welding of metal parts that tend to stick together -especially dissimilar metals such as when aluminum and steel or different grades of steel are placed tightly against each other. Because of galvanic action (migration of electrons) dissimilar metals tend to act like a battery when put in close proximity and can actually cause the joint between the two of them to become lightly welded tight enough that they can't be easily broken apart at the threads. Salt or other oxidizers tends to make this type of bond even worse.
For the most part there are not many places on a bicycle where this is very necessary -the pedal to crank threads are one of them.
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Permalink Reply by Andrew N on -
James and Chris, thanks for the thoughtful replies.
James, additional thanks for anticipating my follow-up question.
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Permalink Reply by Vondo on -
I could take it to the shop, but that ain't gonna learn me nothin. Thanks for the info on the anti seize compound, will definitely use it when I put the new pedals on.
@ H' if I dont get it off this afternoon, I'll give you a shout!
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Permalink Reply by James BlackHeron on
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Regular old grease will do a lot of good if you don't have anti-seize -it's loads better than putting them together dry. If a pedal is only going to be on for a season or two regular water-proof grease like you get for boat trailer axles will serve quite well. I use this grease for the majority of my bicycle work and buy it by the tub for only a few bucks. People just go nuts for the bicycle-specific lubes, greases, and other compounds where automotive stuff is 1/10th the price and is pretty much the same under a different brand name.
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