I need your opinion

Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Stuart on December 17, 2012 at 3:38pm

Get a book from the library.  Have a friend help and do the work yourself.  You will be very happy when you can do the work and continue to ride a great steel bike!

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Permalink Reply by Jenn_5.5 mi on December 17, 2012 at 7:50pm

C-T is around 50cm...



Ace Mann said:

Do you know the frame size. I know someone who might want to buy it.

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Permalink Reply by Jenn_5.5 mi on December 17, 2012 at 7:53pm

Crap picture from my phone...

Attachments:

• 20121217_194354.jpg, 2.2 MB

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Permalink Reply by yai danche on December 17, 2012 at 11:37pm

yeah that sounds a little steep.  i have an old bike, too and the shops i used didn't nearly charge as much.  I had a rear brake replaced ($50) and wheels trued (20/25 plus cost of spoke) then eventually handbuilt new ones ($250ish).  getting the brake housing replaced shouldn't be crazy expensive either and was included in my wheelbuild.  i think the wheelbuild is worth it.  i always felt like my steel rim braking was a death trap.  there's a definite improvement with alloy rims.  sign up for email notices from shops.  during slow times, they offer discounts on labor like doing a wheelbuild.  

kiltedcelt said:

It might have been $330 worth of work if her local shops idea of fixing the spokes and wheel truing issues were to install a whole new set of wheels then replace not only her brake housings and cables, but the calipers and levers as well. But yeah, that all sounds like a lot of fairly simple work, and it looks like maybe that spoke was on the non-hub side, so it's not like the freewheel needs to come off.

Anyway, it's a nice bike. Get some other estimates at other shops or get a Chainlinker to help you, either way, it shouldn't cost you $300. I like Dug's idea of a new wheelset though. You could probably find a nice inexpensive set on Nashbar in aluminum which will help you stop WAY better than chrome steel, especially in the rain. They'd also shave as much as a pound off your bikes total weight too, and shaving weight in the wheels is the best place to start with any bike, assuming you're not hauling tons of cargo or anything.

notoriousDUG said:

That does not sound like $330 worth of work to me but even then you cannot get a bike that nice for $330.  Actually I would think that for that money or not much more you could get a aluminum wheelset which would ride nicer, brake better and lighten the bike as well as most of what is wrong with it.

I would suggest bringing it to another shop for a second opinion; bring it to me at Rapid Transit North and I'll make sure you get it taken care of proper.

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Permalink Reply by Jenn_5.5 mi on December 18, 2012 at 9:11am

Thanks to everyone!! I have decided to fix it up and keep it.

My Dad used to race BMX-style bikes in the 80s (Jack of all trades, Master of none!) and I will be spending about 2 weeks with my family over the holiday, he wants to help me fix it up. So, I will get that wonderful Daddy-Daughter time and learn some more skills. (However, in exchange I am sure I will have to help with his motorcycle! Ha!)

I have placed an order for a new wheel set and all the fixings. I am looking into new brakes/brake system now. And love suggestions!!

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Permalink Reply by Skip Montanaro 12mi on December 18, 2012 at 10:15am

Go with the original offer of help by william (or other wrenchers on the thread).  Watch and learn.  Maybe buy him a cup of coffee.  $330 sounds sort of like, "We really don't want to do this work, how about you buy this other bike instead?"

Not all local bike shops are created equal either.  If you decide to pay a shop, ask a couple more for estimates.

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Permalink Reply by Will on December 18, 2012 at 10:47am

Which wheelset did you buy? You could be in for a world of pain upgrading an older bike with newer components. Not that it can't be done, but you're better off getting some help by someone experienced with such things. For example, the rear spacing on your frame is likely 126mm, while the new wheelset is almost certainly 130mm. Could be a non-issue, or you might need to spread the frame to accept the wider hubs. Axle size might also be an issue, your old rear axle is probably 9.5mm, new axles are 10mm. Might be a non-issue, or you might need to file out the dropouts to fit the new axle.

The spacing issues are just the tip of the iceberg. The drivetrain will likely have some incompatibilities with whatever cassette you can fit on the new wheelset.

My advice would have been to see if you can avoid buying new wheels, focus on doing brake pads, cables and housing, and chain/cogset replacement.

Jenn_W said:

Thanks to everyone!! I have decided to fix it up and keep it.

My Dad used to race BMX-style bikes in the 80s (Jack of all trades, Master of none!) and I will be spending about 2 weeks with my family over the holiday, he wants to help me fix it up. So, I will get that wonderful Daddy-Daughter time and learn some more skills. (However, in exchange I am sure I will have to help with his motorcycle! Ha!)

I have placed an order for a new wheel set and all the fixings. I am looking into new brakes/brake system now. And love suggestions!!

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Permalink Reply by Jenn_5.5 mi on December 18, 2012 at 11:22am

My dad took charge of ordering the wheel set. So I am not sure!?! I guess it is something we will really have to look at when I get there. (I should make a list of things that might not work, so I know what to check!)

Will V. said:

Which wheelset did you buy? You could be in for a world of pain upgrading an older bike with newer components. Not that it can't be done, but you're better off getting some help by someone experienced with such things. For example, the rear spacing on your frame is likely 126mm, while the new wheelset is almost certainly 130mm. Could be a non-issue, or you might need to spread the frame to accept the wider hubs. Axle size might also be an issue, your old rear axle is probably 9.5mm, new axles are 10mm. Might be a non-issue, or you might need to file out the dropouts to fit the new axle.

The spacing issues are just the tip of the iceberg. The drivetrain will likely have some incompatibilities with whatever cassette you can fit on the new wheelset.

My advice would have been to see if you can avoid buying new wheels, focus on doing brake pads, cables and housing, and chain/cogset replacement.

Jenn_W said:

Thanks to everyone!! I have decided to fix it up and keep it.

My Dad used to race BMX-style bikes in the 80s (Jack of all trades, Master of none!) and I will be spending about 2 weeks with my family over the holiday, he wants to help me fix it up. So, I will get that wonderful Daddy-Daughter time and learn some more skills. (However, in exchange I am sure I will have to help with his motorcycle! Ha!)

I have placed an order for a new wheel set and all the fixings. I am looking into new brakes/brake system now. And love suggestions!!

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Permalink Reply by notoriousDUG on December 18, 2012 at 11:59am

No offense but this is terrible advice.  I upgrade the wheelsets on old bikes like this all of the time and there are plenty of wheels out there that have the proper spacing and axle to fit bikes like this as well as accept the drive train parts that match the rest of the bike.  ANY time you swap rear wheels there is a good chance that shifting will have to be fine tuned.

There is no tip of the iceberg because there is no iceberg; as long as the correct wheel is ordered there should be no issue in swapping the wheels out.

Advising against upgrading the wheels on a steel rimmed bike is doing the rider a disservice; the decrease in weight and increase in braking make the bike not only more enjoyable but SAFER to ride.

Will V. said:

Which wheelset did you buy? You could be in for a world of pain upgrading an older bike with newer components. Not that it can't be done, but you're better off getting some help by someone experienced with such things. For example, the rear spacing on your frame is likely 126mm, while the new wheelset is almost certainly 130mm. Could be a non-issue, or you might need to spread the frame to accept the wider hubs. Axle size might also be an issue, your old rear axle is probably 9.5mm, new axles are 10mm. Might be a non-issue, or you might need to file out the dropouts to fit the new axle.

The spacing issues are just the tip of the iceberg. The drivetrain will likely have some incompatibilities with whatever cassette you can fit on the new wheelset.

My advice would have been to see if you can avoid buying new wheels, focus on doing brake pads, cables and housing, and chain/cogset replacement.

Jenn_W said:

Thanks to everyone!! I have decided to fix it up and keep it.

My Dad used to race BMX-style bikes in the 80s (Jack of all trades, Master of none!) and I will be spending about 2 weeks with my family over the holiday, he wants to help me fix it up. So, I will get that wonderful Daddy-Daughter time and learn some more skills. (However, in exchange I am sure I will have to help with his motorcycle! Ha!)

I have placed an order for a new wheel set and all the fixings. I am looking into new brakes/brake system now. And love suggestions!!

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Permalink Reply by Will on December 18, 2012 at 12:34pm

Fair enough, but you're assuming the correct wheelset and hubs were ordered. And we've already established at least originally, the bike had alloy, not steel rims. I bet the rims are alloy.

notoriousDUG said:

No offense but this is terrible advice.  I upgrade the wheelsets on old bikes like this all of the time and there are plenty of wheels out there that have the proper spacing and axle to fit bikes like this as well as accept the drive train parts that match the rest of the bike.  ANY time you swap rear wheels there is a good chance that shifting will have to be fine tuned.

There is no tip of the iceberg because there is no iceberg; as long as the correct wheel is ordered there should be no issue in swapping the wheels out.

Advising against upgrading the wheels on a steel rimmed bike is doing the rider a disservice; the decrease in weight and increase in braking make the bike not only more enjoyable but SAFER to ride.

Will V. said:

Which wheelset did you buy? You could be in for a world of pain upgrading an older bike with newer components. Not that it can't be done, but you're better off getting some help by someone experienced with such things. For example, the rear spacing on your frame is likely 126mm, while the new wheelset is almost certainly 130mm. Could be a non-issue, or you might need to spread the frame to accept the wider hubs. Axle size might also be an issue, your old rear axle is probably 9.5mm, new axles are 10mm. Might be a non-issue, or you might need to file out the dropouts to fit the new axle.

The spacing issues are just the tip of the iceberg. The drivetrain will likely have some incompatibilities with whatever cassette you can fit on the new wheelset.

My advice would have been to see if you can avoid buying new wheels, focus on doing brake pads, cables and housing, and chain/cogset replacement.

Jenn_W said:

Thanks to everyone!! I have decided to fix it up and keep it.

My Dad used to race BMX-style bikes in the 80s (Jack of all trades, Master of none!) and I will be spending about 2 weeks with my family over the holiday, he wants to help me fix it up. So, I will get that wonderful Daddy-Daughter time and learn some more skills. (However, in exchange I am sure I will have to help with his motorcycle! Ha!)

I have placed an order for a new wheel set and all the fixings. I am looking into new brakes/brake system now. And love suggestions!!

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Permalink Reply by Will on December 18, 2012 at 6:50pm

BTW, I totally agree that if the bike has steel rims, it's worth the upgrade, with the right parts. My advice was based on the assumption that the LBS told her the rims were steel, or she assumed the rims were steel, and that info was incorrect based on the specs in the Fuji catalog I posted earlier in this thread, and also based on the supposition that she might very well have accidentally ordered a set of wheels with a modern Shimano cassette freehub, in the absence of specific guidance from someone knowledgeable.

notoriousDUG said:

No offense but this is terrible advice.  I upgrade the wheelsets on old bikes like this all of the time and there are plenty of wheels out there that have the proper spacing and axle to fit bikes like this as well as accept the drive train parts that match the rest of the bike.  ANY time you swap rear wheels there is a good chance that shifting will have to be fine tuned.

There is no tip of the iceberg because there is no iceberg; as long as the correct wheel is ordered there should be no issue in swapping the wheels out.

Advising against upgrading the wheels on a steel rimmed bike is doing the rider a disservice; the decrease in weight and increase in braking make the bike not only more enjoyable but SAFER to ride.

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