Many of the local places won't do jobs this small. The best way is to work through a shop who has an account with a local powder coater (there are several) and have it tossed in with their usual frame run. To keep the pricing even lower, have it shot with the same powder as a frame that's part of the run.
But it won't be a few bucks -- I've been charged between $20 and $35 for racks (including stripping/prep), never as much as the $150 quoted.
Matthew Swartwout said:
From the people I've talked to so far it seems as if most companies have a minimum charge between 150 and 175. So I doubt you'll be able to find anyone willing to do it for less than a new rack.
I don't want to hijack but I am interested in getting something powdercoated too. I don't need a whole frame done, just a bike rack. Thing is though, the rack only cost $35, and I've already spent $12 on some Chassis/Rollbar epoxy spray paint that is already flaking/chipping off. Might be coming off because I sprayed over an existing factory powder coat job though. Is this something I could get done for a few bucks or is it likely to cost as much or more than what I paid for the rack?
I talked to them today when I picked up my frame and they said probably around 40. That includes sandblasting, color, and I think a clear as well. If you want their info just let me know. I can post some pics of the frame I just picked up and another I had done if you want to see their work.
$ 40 was for the rack! For frame and fork it is $100 - $120 here is the frame I just had done and my track frame I had done earlier this year.
Mason 773 885 1208
Justin 312 351 2429
There is Chester Cycles too.. Just throwing it out there.
Are you looking for Earl Sheib just to get the job done, or something really serious?
If serious work, I would also throw UV in the ring.. From what I have seen, Yuval does fantastic work. I like his fades from one color to another. I am a huge fan of schemes like that.
My powder coating business is located in the Bridgeport neighborhood. Please check out my web site uvmetalarts.com and click on the Powder coating link. You will see our images of past work there and an explanation of what we do.
We have a reputations for high quality work because that is all that is allowed to leave our shop. We re-strip any questionable PC jobs (at our loss financially and to the dismay of some of my staff), because we know that every frame out there represents UV Metal Arts.
Our turn around time is 2-3 weeks for basic PC jobs, sometimes more if I'm not happy with the results and we have to repaint. On arrival every frame is checked for alignment and damage, free of charge. All frames are chemically stripped, low presser media blasted, and chemically treated for corrosion resistance under the PC. After coating, most frames and forks get faced, chased and reamed as part of our complimentary service. In addition to powder coating, we offer frame repair as well as the addition or removal of braze-ons.
Frames are $199.99, frame and fork is $225, and racks are $75 each. We also do rims, hubs, spokes, fenders, chain guards and stems.
We have working relationships with many bike shop's in the city, Amling's Cycle, Blue City Bikes, Boulevard Bikes, Rapid Transit, Roscoe Village Bike Shop, Upgrade Cycle Works, West Town bikes and Yojimbo's Garage (I'm probably forgetting a shop or two).
Oh yea, I also agree with what Duane just said before, PC is more durable, but wet paint allows for a lot more creativity.
Duane, I got another frame for you. A nice Raleigh International with the chrome Nervex lugs. I'm going to get bottle braze-ons etc before getting it to you.
Duane Waller said:
Michael, thanks for the kind words. It was pleasure getting your Raleigh back to its original glory.
My pricing for basic single-color stuff is $180 for a frame and fork that doesn't need to be stripped. This means either it's already stripped (to bare metal), or it is in good enough shape to sand down the existing finish and use it as a base for new color. Remember, if you're looking for ultimate durability, powder is the way to go. If you have intricate details, decals, or maybe want traditional box lining, then paint is the way to go.
And Michael is correct, I'm now in Jeff Park, doing small paint jobs on the side. If you're ever in need of anything, I can be contacted through the forum, or email me at firstname.lastname@example.org
How much does a flat matte finish run? black