Best strategies for coping with single digit commutes
The title says it all. It seems like when the temps begin to dip into sub-20F then all of my so-called "technical apparel" seems to be almost useless, not that it pretty much all sucks at just about any temperature anyway. I've gotta bike 11.5 miles all on the LFP - out there completely exposed for pretty much my entire ride. I didn't ride the last couple days because I was a bit concerned about ice on the LFP, mainly because it doesn't seem to get salted very thoroughly. I was also concerned because I don't have any gear for super-cold weather unless I start dipping into regular people clothes which are not necessarily breathable, don't have pit zips, not made of wool, etc. I have a 100 percent wool commando sweater that would probably work well as a mid layer under a winter coat and I was thinking I could double up with my thinner tights underneath my thicker windproof/waterproof tights. Feet are a problem though. If I keep riding clipless I can only fit a thin pair of wicking socks under some Wigwam Merino wool socks, all crammed into my cycling shoes with some neoprene booties over the outside. My feet can get cold even on days in the higher teens or even low 20s, let alone single digits or minus single digits. I don't want to have to keep riding the bus and train because I REALLY HATE THE BUS! Once I get my car fixed that's always an option, but I would prefer to ride if only I can just find some way to do it an not be miserable.
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Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by mat defiler on -
That's why i use the straight tubes over the balaclava. You can pull down the balaclava to cover your chin and use the tube over nose and mouth. When moisture builds up you just rotate the tube to a dry section.
Evan Arena said:I'll go from the top down
Head - lightest weight balaklava + a lightweight stocking hat. Cheap safety glasses to protect eyes
Breathing with the balaklava is a pain. Moisture builds up in there. But as far as staying WARM...just wear regular indoor clothes + a completely windproof layer from head to toe and you will be toasty warm without sweating.
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Permalink Reply by Carey Wintergreen on -
Here's my winter mix of bike and regular clothes for this year. I moved back here from Miami and I have no complaints about winter.
Giro helmet over Gore Windstopper Soft Shell balaclava, with an Under Armour skullcap, when needed.
NordicTrack polyester spandex long underwear, top and bottom. On sale at Sears, $16.00 each.
Zipped mock-turtle merino light-weight wool sweater. On sale at Macy's, with coupon, $29.00.
Invicta waterproof/breathable shell. Bought it in Rome. Don't ask.
Not-too-skinny jeans for an air layer.
Redwing work shoes over Craftsman wool socks.
Trek lobster-claws. Ten years old and still toasty.
I regularly ride 6 miles each way to a 1-2 hour appointment, and so far, at a low of 17-degrees, I was totally comfortable and not sweaty. But I do have two questions: How do you keep your nose from running in your balaclava? What are the best goggles to go over my glasses, and where do you get them?
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Permalink Reply by kiltedcelt on
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Gene - what do you mean by rechargeable insoles? Are these something that you heat up in the microwave or the battery-powered type? Brand and where you bought them?
Gene Tenner said:I have been riding in the winter for over 20 years and I currently wear no clothing that came from a bike store. Much of it came from Marshall's. What touches my skin is moisture-managing. Breathable gore-tex-like fabric covers the outside and it is all baggy, providing an added layer of air as an excellent, insulating buffer between. I wear dorky, fur-lined slippers - they are light and roomy - with gore-tex and moisture-managing socks and light wicking gloves under breathable, gore-tex-like outer mittens. I have 5 different thicknesses of balaclava that I can layer interchangably. I have never missed a day due to the cold in the past 5 years.
I ride a trike, so my feet and hands are pointed up, slowing the flow of blood. Therefore, I cheat. On those polar bear days I have rechargeable insoles - expensive, but worth it if you ride 52 weeks per year - that provide enough heat to combat the cold.
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Permalink Reply by Gene Tenner on
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You can find them cheaper elsewhere, but you can get the idea here:
http://www.sharperimage.com/si/view/product/Rechargeable-Heated-Ins...
Just google Rechargeable Heated Insoles.
kiltedcelt said:Gene - what do you mean by rechargeable insoles? Are these something that you heat up in the microwave or the battery-powered type? Brand and where you bought them?
Gene Tenner said:I have been riding in the winter for over 20 years and I currently wear no clothing that came from a bike store. Much of it came from Marshall's. What touches my skin is moisture-managing. Breathable gore-tex-like fabric covers the outside and it is all baggy, providing an added layer of air as an excellent, insulating buffer between. I wear dorky, fur-lined slippers - they are light and roomy - with gore-tex and moisture-managing socks and light wicking gloves under breathable, gore-tex-like outer mittens. I have 5 different thicknesses of balaclava that I can layer interchangably. I have never missed a day due to the cold in the past 5 years.
I ride a trike, so my feet and hands are pointed up, slowing the flow of blood. Therefore, I cheat. On those polar bear days I have rechargeable insoles - expensive, but worth it if you ride 52 weeks per year - that provide enough heat to combat the cold.
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Permalink Reply by Chris C on -
No bike-specific clothing here either. Wool is king in my closet. Used wool sweaters are cheaper than dirt at Salvation Army, Goodwill, etc.
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Permalink Reply by Eric Puetz - Smart Bike Parts on
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I find that by making sure my head is warm, my brain does a better job of directing blood to extremities. If it is below 20 degrees, I wear a full face BMX Helmet with Goggles. Wool cycling socks and on real cold days Grabber Foot Warmer Insoles in my Lake Cyling Boots and I'm good to go. Can't begin to explain how well Bar Mitts work in cold, wet weather. I just wear a glove liner and stick my digits in these neoprene caves and I'm impervious to cold or wet. Last but not least, Pearlizumi AmFib Tights are all that I need down to 10 degrees. They are 2.5mm thick and nothing gets through them. This whole set-up is pricey but not when you factor in that it allows me to keep riding in from the burbs in almost any kind of weather. Hope this helps. Ride on. Eric - Smart Bike Parts
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Permalink Reply by ambimb on -
So about those goggles -- recommendations? Last night was super fun but many times I could barely see for all the snow in my eyes, sticking to my lashes, etc. So, is there a pair of goggles out there that's not too much $$ and somehow defeats the fog problem?
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Permalink Reply by TmKrKr on -
It is all about loft. Loose fitting layers from head to toe. Wind resistance outside, wool/fleece inside. If any part feels like 10 pounds shit/5 pound sack, it'll get cold.
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Permalink Reply by Ash L. on -
http://kroopsgoggles.com/bicycling/goggles I use the regular goggles (tinted) and they fit fine over my eyeglasses. For bulkier sunglasses you'll want to go with the glasses specific ones but they'll be bulky.
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Permalink Reply by DanGer 8.2mi on -
Clip in pedals make a metal connection that conducts the cold. Swithing to plastic platform pedals and winter boots will keep your feet warmer. Most importantly don't sweat. I like to be able to un-zip all the way to the base layer to vent extra heat. Carry a pack for the layers that may need to be shed or added on the way. Another helpful hint is to add a very small amount of vodka to your water bottle to keep it from freezing. Yes notoriousDUG cowering is coping, so is taking the bus. =D
notoriousDUG said:Does cowering in a corner sobbing and trying to warm up my fingers count as coping?
When I started biking for transportation on of my goals was to ride year round using as little specialized or expensive clothing as possible. For the most part I have been successful are that and with few exceptions I have been pretty successful at this. Up until this season I have been 100% successful with that but a much longer commute has forced me to suck it up and buy a couple pieces of special gear. I used to work outside in all conditions for years in conditions in which expensive high performance cold weather gear ends up destroyed pretty quickly. Here's what I have learned about keeping warm over the years.
Starting at the bottom with the feet I wear a pair of Goretex insulated boots I picked up on clearance at an outdoor goods store some years ago; they were still pretty expensive but have lasted forever because they are quality boots and I only wear them when it is very cold or very wet. I wear them over two pairs of socks, if I have enough clean ones I go for at least one pair of wool otherwise I just use white athletic socks. The key to warm feet is to keep out the wind and the wet; if you have that covered and some decent layers you will stay warm and toasty. Also if you are going to have your feet on the ground a lot thick soles are good because the insulate your feet from the cold ground more.
Legs wise I keep it simple just long underwear and whatever pants I would normally wear. For long underwear I just use old school cheap ass cotton/poly stuff and it works just fine. If it is really cold I will wear my rain pants over that for an extra layer and to keep the wind out.
Core and arms I rely on layers, layers and more layers. I usually wear a t-shirt and long underwear or a long sleeve t-shirt with a flannel shirt or some kind of sweater or other shirt over it. Over that I wear a mid weight coat I got for free from some vendor years ago; it's not water proof but water resistant enough it's OK in snow. If it really nuts cold, below zero and such, or I am going to be out a long time and not active I wear a hoodie under that or a parka.
For my hands I also rely on layers. I have used all form of glove liner, cotton, wool and synthetic and, in my opinion, what the layer is made of is less important than having the layer regardless of what it is. If you have small hands buy larger good insulated gloves and wear a couple of liners under them. I, sadly, cannot do this because my hands are large enough it's hard enough finding gloves that fit will with one liner. For the outer I had been using good water proof insulated gloves, having good dexterity has always been important to me in my glove choices, but this year have moved to lobster gloves and the difference is huge. I highly recommend lobster gloves or mittens.
For the head I use a Bern helmet with a winter liner and a fleece head band from the bike winter folks for my ears and for head. Up until this year I just used a scarf and safety glasses but my new longer commute showed that to be insufficient so I have gone and picked up some special gear. I got a face mask and some ski goggles. With that setup I have a warm head and face and it rocks.
Outside the bike stuff I have found that if you have to be outside for along period of time the above combinations (wool hat instead of a helmet) plus a set over insulated coveralls will keep you warm outside for ridiculous amounts of time.
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Permalink Reply by Brian Thomas on -
When I head out for my winter rides (usually between 30-60 miles) and the temps are low, I go with the following:
Hands: merino wool glove liners, Craft Siberian gloves (put an extra pair of glove liners in a pocket, they'll get sweaty, and you'll want to change them if you stop somewhere)
Head: Merino wool helmet liner and fleece neck collar
Torso: Merino wool baselayer, Merino wool blend long sleeve jersey, or if it's really cold a winter jersey, wind stopper softshell jacket
Legs: Knee warmers, Gore wind stopper softshell tights
Feet: Merino wool liners, merino wool thermal socks, Lake Cycling CX140 winter shoes, neoprene overshoes
With the feet, if you want to keep riding clipless you just may have to bite the bullet and get a pair of winter cycling shoes. Shimano, Lake and Mavic all make pretty good ones. It sucks, because it means spending more money, but it really beats the alternative. If you don't want to shell out for winter shoes, a buddy of mine uses a pair of regular cycling shoes one size too large, so he can wear a heavier sock underneath.
And remember, stopping the wind is waaaay more important than insulation. If you have the right layers on, your body heat from cycling should be enough. It's the wind that'll make you cold and miserable. If you use wind stopper shells on your legs, torso, hands and feet, you should be plenty warm in almost any weathers.
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Where do you get the Merino wool blend long sleeve jersey?
Brian Thomas said:When I head out for my winter rides (usually between 30-60 miles) and the temps are low, I go with the following:
Hands: merino wool glove liners, Craft Siberian gloves (put an extra pair of glove liners in a pocket, they'll get sweaty, and you'll want to change them if you stop somewhere)
Head: Merino wool helmet liner and fleece neck collar
Torso: Merino wool baselayer, Merino wool blend long sleeve jersey, or if it's really cold a winter jersey, wind stopper softshell jacket
Legs: Knee warmers, Gore wind stopper softshell tights
Feet: Merino wool liners, merino wool thermal socks, Lake Cycling CX140 winter shoes, neoprene overshoes
With the feet, if you want to keep riding clipless you just may have to bite the bullet and get a pair of winter cycling shoes. Shimano, Lake and Mavic all make pretty good ones. It sucks, because it means spending more money, but it really beats the alternative. If you don't want to shell out for winter shoes, a buddy of mine uses a pair of regular cycling shoes one size too large, so he can wear a heavier sock underneath.
And remember, stopping the wind is waaaay more important than insulation. If you have the right layers on, your body heat from cycling should be enough. It's the wind that'll make you cold and miserable. If you use wind stopper shells on your legs, torso, hands and feet, you should be plenty warm in almost any weathers.
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