I am needing to swap out a rear tube on my wife's 75 Schwinn Breeze. I have never taken a rear wheel off a Sturmey 3 speed IG hub before. Before I break something, does anyone have a PDF or instructions for this situation? Thanks.
1)shift into 2nd
2)loosen locknut on the indicator chain(little chain that come out of the hub) and unscrew the barrel completely.
2a)if fitted with a coaster brake, remove the screw and nut at the reaction arm clip.
3)loosen axle nuts and slide out wheel.
3a)if fitted with axle mounted fender stays, unscrew indicator chain from hub and remove axle nuts, pop off stays and remove wheel
1)install the reverse of removal
Reset Shifter/needs to be done every time wheel is removed
1)if indicator chain was removed from hub, screw into axle until it bottoms then back off 1/2-1 turn
2)with shifter in 2nd, screw the barrel back on the indicator
3)site through the window in the axle nut and adjust the barrel until the flat on the indicator is flush with the end of the axle
4)run through the gears and come back to 2nd and check adjustment. readjust if needed and tighten lock nut against barrel
Here's a .pdf
See pg.2 for gear adjustment
Thanks very much. That is what I needed. The fellow at the bike shop where I purchased a couple of tubes and a spare tire (Kenda makes some that fit apparently) told me they are a bear to mount. I hope to not have too much trouble as they can't be much worse than Gatorskins or other heavy belted tires.
That's about it for taking it apart. Because it is a step-through be VERY careful about not getting the shift cable bound up with the cranks. If you pinch or kink it the cable will have "spring" in it and will make it MUCH harder to tune the neutral out between 2nd and 3rd gear. Keep it away from the chainwheel which will want to EAT it.
This is the way I do it. It's not the official way which is a PITA (especially the adjusting of the shift cable. That's the crazy hard way IMHO.)
Wow James thanks for taking the time to write that up for me. I spent the day wrenching our old Jeep so the bike will be for tomorrow. Thanks to you both once again.
Turn bike upside down on seat and handlebars. Put the shifter in 3rd gear. Take one round cylinder connector off the indicator chain. If it does not move, you need two pliers to break it free, pulling away from each other. Then loosen both axle nuts and remove wheel. www.roberscycle.com
Alright mechanical mentors...........I need your assistance.
So I cannot get the shifter to engage now that I have reinstalled the wheel. I had it for a while and it was constantly shifting. Now it will not shift at all. I reinstalled the indicator locknut and put the barrel back in as it was. Is it possible I just don't have the tension adjusted correctly? I gave up and will get back to it tomorrow.
Also, check that the shift cable has not fallen off got pinched behind the little keeper of the bottom pulley wheel.
And check that the cable stop plastic insert has not self-destructed and caved-in on itself. The stop I'm talking about is the strap on the frame that the cable housing from the shifter attaches to the frame and then goes to the bare cable down the top-tube towards the pulley wheel. This is a known weak-spot for the SA shift cable.
^ I've only messed with one S-A equipped bike but the above sounds like a one-stop class. If the plastic insert James mentions is trashed, you can likely get a replacement from Uptown Bikes. In fact they are likely to have most parts you might need for an SA equipped bike, either new or from their stash of used parts. They had a couple of small parts, including that plastic one, that I really needed for the bike I rebuilt.
I have a few of the plastic inserts left in stock. You have to buy them in a bag of 10 to get a good price. I keep most of the weird parts for the common SA hubs as I rebuild a lot of them. I usually will replace this part (called a fulcrum sleeve) on any SA-equipped bike I rebuild as the plastic they were made of just doesn't last over time and rot out. I'm not sure if it is the UV light, oil, or just time. Who knows if the new ones will fare better over the long term compared to the original ones that came with the bikes when they were new but 20-30 years of life isn't too bad. Plastics have gotten stronger over the past few decades so I would assume these new ones are at least as good as the old ones when new.
Unfortunately most of the English 3-speeds still rolling around are that age or more already. It's best to just replace that part for the piece of mind. Some of the older bikes made in the 60's or earlier had a metal fulcrum sleeve and these are indestructible. Unfortunately, while they can still be purchased from guys who machine them custom for this purpose, they are not cheap -$10 each!